Frequently Asked Questions & Links

Question:
My house is new. Isn't radon only in old homes?

Answer:
No. All homes, young or old, have the potential to have a radon problem.

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Question:
If I don't have a basement, can I have a radon problem?

Answer:
Yes. Slab on grade homes still have a section of wall 3 feet below grade where gas gets trapped and gets into home.

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Question:
What does pCi/L mean?

Answer:
This is how we term the measurement of radon. The "p" stands for picos or parts per trillion, "C" stands for curies ( Madam Curie was a female scientist who discovered radium) and "L" stands for liter, the quantity of air.

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Question:
I have a low radon level i.e.: 5.7 pCi/L. How dangerous is this level?

Answer:
There are several articles on the danger of low level radiation. The real question is, what is your families history? If cancer runs in your family, then you're probably at a greater risk. Cancer is linked to more than just radioactivity (i.e.: stress, food, etc) and doctors advise we don't expose ourselves to the sun for long periods of time, so why take the risk?

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Question:
When I had my home tested, there was an open can of paint near by. Could that have raised my radon level?

Answer:
No. There is no substance that mimics radon. Nothing in your basement will raise or lower the radon level except for radon itself.

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QUESTIONS TO ASK WHEN SELECTING A RADON CONTRACTOR:

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• Does the contractor have all appropriate licenses? Make sure you ask to see them.
  
  
• Does the contractor charge to do estimates?
  
  
• When talking to contractor does he/she sound knowledgeable and able to explain the what and whys of the process?
  
  
• Did the contractor give you a bid on company letterhead with name, address, and license numbers?
  
  
• Does bid include total cost? If not have them explain why.
  
  
• Does the bid include a pCi/L guarantee? If not ask why.
  
  
• Does the bid include which fan is being used and what the fan guarantee is from manufacture?
  
  
• What gauge of pipe is being used (sch20 or sch40)? Sch40 pipe is preferred.
  
  
• Make sure the location of the system is in writing.
  
  
• Will the contractor include a retest after the work has been completed? If so what testing method will be used?
  
  
• If the contractor is requiring you to do some work prior to installation have it in writing.
  
  
• If contractor is changing sump pump, what is the pump's horsepower?
  
  
• If the sump pit is going to be sealed be sure the sump lid has had a Drainjer installed in the lid. This device allows the sump pit to keep the ability to drain surface water should a water line ever burst, and it is an E.P.A. code!
  
  
• The bid should include a "U" tube Manometer. This device shows the operating performance of the fan installed.
  
  
• Have the contractor give you a date and time as to when work is to be completed.
  
  
• Ask the contractor to prepare the contract before any work starts, and read it carefully!
  
  
• When getting quotes over the phone be careful of contractors who low ball their price.
  
  
• Never choose a contractor who does testing and mitigation.

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RADON LINKS

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• CanSAR - Cancer Survivors Against Radon
• EPA's Radon Home Page
• EPA's Position on Radon: Health Risks
• MARYLAND - EPA Map of Radon Zones
• An Environmental Protection Agency (E.P.A.) study titled ‘Exploratory Study of Basement Moisture during Operation of ASD Radon Control Systems’ (http://www.epa.gov/radon/pdfs/moisturestudy.pdf)